Essential
Experience
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Discovering Delightful Diversions in Belgium

Brussels and Bruges, Belgium
July 5, 2011
I have to admit Brussels was never on my bucket list... But during the three days I was stranded there, I grew to appreciate the quiet charm and beauty of this quintessential northern European city and the warmth of the Belgian people.
Discovering Delightful Diversions in Belgium Anthony, second from left, and his colleagues at the train station in Brussels.

As the tenth anniversary of 9/11 approaches, it’s inevitable to think back to where you were and what you were doing when you heard the news of that horrible day. While other Americans watched news of the terrorist attacks unfold live on their TVs at home, I was a world away in Brussels on what was supposed to be a routine business trip – one that suddenly became an extended stay as air travel to the US came to a halt for the next few days.

I have to admit Brussels was never on my bucket list. To me, the city was the headquarters of NATO and the European Union. Brussels was bureaucrats and military personnel—not so exciting to a single guy in his early 30s. But during the three days I was stranded there, I grew to appreciate the quiet charm and beauty of this quintessential northern European city and the warmth of the Belgian people.

I also have to admit that until then, I was that type of traveler who aimed to blend in with the natives. But after 9/11, I never felt prouder to be an American and never before felt how much others appreciated the land of my birth.

I flew into Brussels on September 9, for an AAA travel conference. September 11, the second day of the conference, I went to my room at the Brussels Le Meridien Hotel thinking I’d catch up on some work. I turned on CNN International as background noise and went about my business, until I absorbed what was on my screen. Like everyone else, my first reaction (after utter shock) was to try to phone family, but of course lines to the United States were jammed. I was comforted by the knowledge that my parents were in Florida – hopefully well out of harm’s way – but I really didn’t want to be alone.  Not now.  So. I turned instead to industry colleagues – people I knew from going to conferences and trade shows around the world.

A scenic bridge in Bruges.

I was in Brussels with Cindy Botelho, who also works for Princess.  She’s a good friend and we still remain close.  We gathered in her room with some other colleagues.  Little did I know but we were all to become family over the surreal days that followed.

We watched the news, like the rest of the world trying to figure out who had targeted the United States and why. We eventually moved to the hotel’s conference room, which AAA converted to a news and travel agency. Passing through the hotel lobby, I saw anxious Americans trying to get home and fearing to fly at the same time.

After six hours of this, I told my colleagues, “Look, this may sound insensitive, but I can’t watch this anymore. I’m going to take a shower, get dressed, and go out to dinner for a change of scenery. If you want to join me, please do.”  Everyone took me up on it and I realized my colleagues were quickly becoming my friends through this unsettling experience. Leaving the hotel, we appreciated how lucky we were to breathe the fresh air outside and gratefully went to dinner.

Anthony, left, and his friends on a canal tour in Bruges.

We indulged in local Belgian fare and beer and the locals were very kind.  We were obviously American and found open hearts and genuine concern directed our way.  Not only did they provide us with warm gestures of comfort, they also gave us insight into the city’s must-see sights.

The next morning set the routine for the coming days. My colleagues and I would meet and spend an hour or so sizing up our travel options. Once we’d determined there were no flights out, we’d make the best of the rest of the day and discover the treasures of Brussels.

We headed straight for the heart of Brussels, the Grand Place or Grote Markt (Great Market), the city’s central meeting place literally for 1000 years. The Grand Place was an open-air market in the 10th century. By the 13th century, indoor markets for the important guilds of the time were built. Over the years, these buildings were torn down by attackers and rebuilt numerous times, ultimately being restored in the 19th century to the majesty we see today.

It was clear that Brussels was an important city during the middle ages and Renaissance. The Grand Place is equally important to modern Brussels. We put aside the frightening news and people-watched and explored the shops, cafes and restaurants that fill these buildings today.

Anthony, right, with his friends on a bridge in Bruges.

You can’t visit Brussels without seeing its most famous statue, Manneken Pis. That would translate to Little Man Pee. While Rome has Neptune presiding over the cascading rocks of the Trevi Fountain, Brussels has a little boy urinating into a basin. Sometimes he is au natural; other times he is dressed in gold-embroidered finery one day and slouchy pants, a T-shirt and knit cap the next. People are crazy about Manneken Pis. There are restaurants named in his honor and a section of the King’s House museum displays his extensive wardrobe.

Some say Mannekin Pis commemorates the legend of a little boy who urinated on a burning fuse and thwarted an attacker’s plot. Others say it was erected by a grateful family whose lost boy was found relieving himself in a garden. Whatever the origin, if you’re in Brussels you have to see this statue.

The next morning the news, once again, was that there were no flights home. So we decided to go to Brugge (or Bruges), which is just about an hour outside of Brussels by train. (Belgium is both French and Flemish speaking, so most places have two names.)

A beautiful castle tower in Bruges.

Bruges is filled with charm and beautiful architecture. Much of the city is laid out along canals and, like Amsterdam, it’s sometimes called the Venice of the North. The streets are lined with quaint houses with lace curtains and window boxes filled with vibrant flowers. But the city was an important one during medieval times and, like Brussels, has a market square that was influential in its time. Bruges’ skyline is dominated by the Church of Our Lady and the belfry’s tower, both built in the middle ages. It’s an immaculately preserved slice of history, with a modern pulse.

We enjoyed meeting some of the city’s inhabitants over a stop for mussels and Belgian fries—or moules frites—and were touched by their friendliness and warm concern for our welfare. More than one person approached to tell us they were sorry and that they stood with us.

By day three, some of my colleagues had been booked on flights home, and I was setting out for another adventure with my one remaining traveling companion when my phone rang with news that I had been booked on a flight out. As I left Brussels, I looked out the window down at the city I never thought I’d love so much.  Because of the unusual circumstances, I not only remember the amazing sights, culture and people but I have a fondness for the city that provided me such comfort and support.

With the 10th anniversary approaching, my life is very different. I’m married, a father, and living in Brooklyn, not that far from Ground Zero. This September 11 will be a solemn occasion. The anniversary is sure to cast a shadow over the city and the residents who were so deeply affected. I will mourn alongside them, but I will also think of my time in Belgium, when flights were frozen, and remind myself that time is a gift that should never be wasted.

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30 Comments

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  1. MARILYN WALZ says... September 2, 2011 | 3:32pm

    i am very interested in touring/or cruise – to europe particularily the german, belguim and netherlands area’s. I’m doing genealogy and have made contact witha person in Netherlands. Also would like to visit England and Ireland – We did your cruise to Alaska in 2008 and enjoyed it very much.
    Please send info on countries mentioned above.
    Thank you,
    Marilyn

  2. Ruth says... September 1, 2011 | 5:21pm

    Brussels is a lovely city that I visited often for my company. I also spent a couple of months there during their summer one year. Christmas time is also a great time for a visit when Gran Place is full of hundreds of booths selling everything Christmas. Loved the experience! I also visited Brugge by train and thoroughly enjoyed this quaint city. Luxembourg is also a great country to visit, as is Luxembourg City. We had a great time visiting the many castles and enjoying the friendly people, the best ice cream ever, and the food! One can’t forget the spectacular chocolates, beer, wine, and dining outside under the stars near the plaza!

  3. Richard says... July 29, 2011 | 8:14pm

    Bruges – 1984 with wife and two children. It was a beautiful weekend. I can understand everyone’s sentiments. We need to get back!

    • chris sloan says... July 31, 2011 | 7:29am

      some things hurt so much you stop breathing, looking at the sun could blind you, but the light brings life. Fun is not funny when my sun isn’t sunny.

  4. Marie says... July 29, 2011 | 6:51pm

    I lived in Belgium since the age 4. To anyone reading this, I am now in Victoria BC, canada, and I want to leave. a major disappointment in terms of human “warmth”.
    I left Brussels for years to live in Mallorca (this island is magic for a short time but i am Spanish so i see the utter destruction and massive tourist damaging effects. In 10 years, the magic has gone). Found out that Brugge, a city I only visited once in my belgian life, was my anchorage Timeless place. The best Bed and Breakfast (Lut Setola is the most adorable lady of Belgium so to say with Rita) ever. I smile with nostaliga reading about the Teen agers. Fact is in Belgium, teen agers are FANTASTIC. I remember one day I went shopping and walked fast through the famous Markt, when a teenager (lol) asked me to make a picture with him!!! I had my irish woolen sweater and looked quite teenage myself I must say. I smiled and did the picture. He told me it was a group “challenge” game. That is the real Belgium. Incredibly warm and friendly. Nothing like this brainwashed BC style where people stare at you if you say one sentence not complying with the daily routine….terrible.

    As for the Ardennes, it is most amazing. I lived in Wallonie in many places. Many cities are in decay. NEVER EVER go to charleroi unless you must go to the airport. most depressing city of Europe. Wallonie landscapes are wonderful but the problem in Belgium is street dirt.
    Brugge is pristine. I lived in Antwerpen and frankly when I returned it was a shock. Honestly the Flemish people have become hostile to muslim migrants. This is the truth they will never tell to Americans. By the Way, Belgians love Americans since ever. It is the main difference with the French; I can say that Belgium is a microcosm very similar to the US. It is just tiny.
    Youth is just more wise. Belgium is a student country. You find students and schoolchidren everywhere. Right now I miss that so much. England is also similar. Very friendly!!!

    Brussels can be very filthy. Rentals is the dark side. A lot of abuse.
    Go to Brugges even if you must take the train from Zuid station in Brussels. Accommodation in Brugge is excellent. In one hour you can visit any place and get back to the Peace of Brugge. Trains are not reliable. Lots of delays. Except for the express lines. They are quite old and dirty. but ok, it is very cool and friendly.
    Enjoy Belgium as soon as you can. Dont miss the divine bakery (Wittamer) chocolate (Neuhaus). Last tip if you ever go to Brussels, dont miss “les larmes du tigre” THAI restaurant. Book in advance. I dont know now but 15 years later I still remember.
    As for the medical infrastructure, it is to me, the best in Europe. If you are ill, you call a doctor and he can go to your place. Belgian doctors are the most friendly I ever met. All the best !!!

  5. Mary says... July 29, 2011 | 5:35am

    What a nice idea.
    Loved the story, husband and I will start making some plans today.
    Thanks

  6. Karen says... July 29, 2011 | 5:11am

    Last year we sailed on a repositioning cruise that left Ft. Lauderdale for northern Europe and then the Baltic – 28 days. It was magical! I’ve told many people that Belgium was my favorite!
    I guess it was partly because I did not know what to expect – a nice surprise so to speak! So much history – and the people were so friendly. I remember a teenager riding by on his bike saying “Welcome to Bruge”.

  7. Pamela says... July 28, 2011 | 2:58pm

    Thanks for the nice words about my adoptive country. I moved here in March 2010 with my husband, who had accepted an open-contract assignment with his company. Despite being very well-traveled and used to Europe, I wasn’t sure what LIVING here would be like (I’m American). Turns out, I never want to leave. There’s more worth seeing in the Ardennes, and where I live, Rixensart, about 20 miles south of Brussels, is some of the prettiest countryside I’ve ever seen. Lots of fabulous history here, too! All that, plus having easy access to the rest of Europe, has made it an ideal home.

  8. GRACE BOLAND,WE says... July 25, 2011 | 9:32pm

    lots of memories or brussels ,and all nie ones ,the most beautiful chocolate i always remember that

  9. Brian says... July 24, 2011 | 8:57pm

    Spent a week in Belgium five years ago and loved every minute of it – the beer, the chocolate, the friendly people and the history. Brugge was the highlight – so much much to take in in such a small place. Had a B&B across the street from the Church of Our Lady and a block from the canals – priceless. Hope to return in 2013.

  10. eze says... July 7, 2011 | 10:39am

    pls i want to be a bornified member of this network as a recorgnised member.

  11. eze says... July 7, 2011 | 10:36am

    i have always liked this service.

  12. Joan Cauce says... July 7, 2011 | 8:43am

    Great article. Your proud sister actually forwarded the piece to me. Don’t know if you remember but my husband and I were in Brussels as well on 9/11 at a trade show mini vacation. We to were shocked and gathered with our American Colleagues in the same process as you. We visited Bruges with a group of Americans and were welcomed with open arms and true concern. Can’t believe it has been almost 10 years. Brought back a slew of memories. Thanks Anthony.
    Joanie Cauce (Your sister’s friend and neighbor)

    • Anthony says... July 9, 2011 | 8:03pm

      of course I remember you. You were at a textile convention. very small world. Glad she forwarded it to you

  13. Wendy Lou says... July 6, 2011 | 4:30pm

    Thanks for sharing your story!
    Our Princess cruise called at Zeebrugge and we took the train to Brugge. We went on a boat ride along the canal and then had lunch in a quaint restaurant. We were speaking English and a group of teenagers approached us. They were writing a postcard to their English teacher, who had returned home to the USA for the summer, and wanted us to check it for mistakes. We enjoyed speaking to them and then left for our return trip to Zeebrugge. Several blocks later, we realized that my Mom had left her camera at the restaurant. I volunteered to go back and as I turned the corner, I encountered the teenagers running towards me – with my Mom’s camera. Lovely place and lovely people!

  14. Carol says... July 6, 2011 | 2:09pm

    Hi, we enjoyed reading your story and were looking forwards to visiting these places ourselves along with friends later in the year, but sadly the itinerary on the mini- cruise we are booked on has been changed so we’ll now be calling at Guernsey instead. I’m sure we’ll have a great time but we are disappointed not to be visiting Brussels/Brugge.

  15. ILa says... July 6, 2011 | 11:34am

    A few years back, I was on a Fam that included Brugge, Belguim. It was new to me. Now I think it should be on everyone’s bucket list!

  16. Penny Quilter says... July 6, 2011 | 10:27am

    We went on Baltic cruise and Bruges was the last port to call and It’ was a shame as it was raining all day. There’s was so much beautiful places and building for taking pictures but the rains spoiled it all. We have to come back to Bruges again because it’s fascinating.

  17. Yvonne Young says... July 5, 2011 | 3:00pm

    The best city in Belgium is Antwerpen.thank you for sharing your story.

    • Anthony says... July 5, 2011 | 6:04pm

      I was surprised that there was so much to do in a relatively small country. Unfortunately I didn’t make it to Antwerpen

  18. James says... July 5, 2011 | 1:24pm

    We are calling in at Zeebrugge later in the year. We have friends in Brugge, how do we get from the port, where I understand we are not allowed to walk, to be able to get to Brugge

    • Princess Cruises says... July 6, 2011 | 2:54pm

      Hi James,

      Taxis are available pierside on a limited basis and throughout the city. Taxi drivers speak English and accept local currency and other British pounds. Please note: Drivers prefer to transport passengers longer distances (to Brussels, Bruges or Ghent) as opposed to transferring them within Zeebrugge.

  19. Laura Moore says... July 5, 2011 | 10:25am

    Very moving story…your experience of that time in Belgium is told beautifully…thank you for sharing.

  20. Julie says... July 5, 2011 | 10:24am

    One of the most beautiful cities I’ve seen is Brugge. So glad you were able to visit, and thanks for a great story.

  21. Jennifer says... July 5, 2011 | 9:58am

    as a belgian I have to correct the writer that Belgium has 3 official languages : dutch (flemish) , french and german. Only the Brussels-Capital Region is officially bilingual , so Brugge that lies within the flemish community will always be Brugge , never Bruges ……

    • Anthony says... July 5, 2011 | 6:06pm

      I stand corrected. And I learned something new. Thanks!

  22. Millie says... July 5, 2011 | 9:30am

    Great story! Those were really emotionally difficult days for everyone. Did you get to visit the Musical Instruments Museum? Brussels is in my bucket list because I’m a saxophone player and Belgium is the birth place and home of Adolphe Sax, the saxophone’s inventor. I have read that the museum has an extensive collection of his horns.

    • Anthony says... July 5, 2011 | 6:08pm

      We did not get there. But we did go to the site of the World’s Fair. And I didn’t know the Sax’s history either. Thanks for helping me learn something new.

  23. Janet says... July 5, 2011 | 8:58am

    This was an excellent read and review of Belgium…and a very moving review of those heartbreaking days as well.

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