Reader Essential Experience of the Week

Surprising Tallinn Springs to Life
Tallinn, Estonia
Posted by Kathryn Fuller
March 29, 2011

Not having heard much about Estonia, I did not have any high expectations. Was I ever surprised!

Tallin's skyline is dominated by the spire of St. Olav's Church.

This jewel of the Baltic still retains its medieval character with its great wall around “Old Town” Tallinn, the fort and castle ruins, and the narrow cobblestone streets.

It was Sunday morning as we strolled through the city gate while the church bells rang.  Shopkeepers were just opening their shops and cafe owners were setting up the chairs and tables around the perimeter of the town square. Vendors opened their stalls to display beautiful handmade linens, woolen mittens, scarves and sweaters, as well as leather goods and the usual souvenirs. The fragrance of flowers and aromas of spiced nuts filled the air.

Handcrafted goods in Tallinn's marketplace.

When we first arrived, we felt like we were walking on an empty set at Universal Studios, but as though the director shouted, “Lights! Camera! Action!” the sleepy little town woke up before our very eyes. The men ran the cafes, the older women sold the end products of a long winter spent in knitting and weaving. The young people sold the post cards, the guide books, nuts, and handled the public relations with their beautiful English. Each had their part to play, and they did it well.

The medieval Old Town seems almost like something from a fairytale, with winding cobblestone streets and well-preserved buildings perched above the sea.

The onion-domed Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is perched atop Toompea Hill.

Even further up is Toompea Hill, the heart of the “Upper Town” where the government buildings and Toompea Castle set the stage.  Gothic St. Mary’s Cathedral, the oldest church in Tallinn, is fascinating and thankfully, now that Estonians can practice religion freely, is still used today.

The city’s Russian ties are obvious from the Alexander Nevsky orthodox cathedral, which is just across from the palace founded by Peter the Great.  As it was Sunday, churches we visited were full of worshippers.

This little Estonia has only been free from the Soviet Union for 20 years, but they’ve come a long way in that time.  We learned that Bill Gates gave all the school children computers to help them on the road to technology. They learned and modernized quickly.  As Tallinn is still a fairly small town, most Estonians live in the country and have minimal social contact. So, it was here that they developed Skype technology so that they could communicate with each other, and today the company has a large presence here.  The government also has incentives in place to encourage people to have children. The birthrate is rising once again.

This surprising city charmed us at each turn but all too soon it was time to leave.  As the day closed, I’m sure all the little players returned to their homes to rest up for a new day and a new beginning for Estonia.

Dating from the 1400s, Tallin's Town Hall is the only intact Gothic town hall in Northern Europe.

Tallinn's Town Hall Square is the heart of the Medieval Old Town.

See cruises that visit this destination

18 Comments

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  28. sandy caricari says... August 1, 2011 | 4:23am

    We just got back from our Baltic cruise(June 26-July 7). The weather was glorious every day.
    Estonia and Norway were our favourite countries. The people of Estonia are so friendly and so accomodating. In Jan,2011, they just joined the euro. With a little difficulty, they were obliging and smiling all the time, as they worked out the exchange. The knitters market and thethe old town were wonderful. I hope to go back.

    • Eve & John says... October 25, 2011 | 1:59pm

      We took the Baltic sea cruise and loved all that we saw”…..however we lost all our photos. We have NO photos of our trip. Do you any photos that you care to share? We live in the USA and visited all ports — Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Denmark and Norway. Would like to hear from you
      Eve

  29. Julie says... April 28, 2011 | 6:55pm

    We are heading to Tallinn in early September what can we expect regarding weather and seas

    • Princess Cruises says... May 27, 2011 | 3:29pm

      Hi Julie,

      The average temperature in Tallinn is 57 degrees in September.

    • Bob says... July 22, 2011 | 10:59am

      We have made trip cruising there too. It is all you say and more in terms of photo shots. The red terra cotta tiled roofs from the highest turn-out makes for great shots. They have some outstanding shops to browse around in. There is even a “McDonald’s” just around one corner of the square. They sell their version of some local food there too. All the kids seem to be well educated and they get their college paid for by the government. Having been an educator…I asked. We were well delighted with the stop and I believe so will you.

  30. Jeff Gersten says... March 31, 2011 | 8:42am

    In 2007, we did a Baltic cruise on the Star Princess to celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary. We did have high expectations for Talinn since we had ready many glowing reviews. We were not disappointed. I think it was my favorite port other than St. Petersburg. (I think my wife rated it third behind St. Petersburg and Oslo.) We, along with a couple we met on board did the walking tour from Rick Steves’ Scandanavia guide book. It was like being transported back to medieval times.

  31. Susan says... March 30, 2011 | 9:09am

    We did a Baltic cruise on the “old” Royal Princess in 1999. We wondered what we would ever find to do for a half-day stop in Tallinn — it was one of the highlights of our trip! I’m sure it’s busier now, but it was friendly and the people welcomed us so warmly. Thanks for writing this review.

  32. Graham Birch says... March 30, 2011 | 4:41am

    I can only agree with these thoughts. My wife and I visited Tallinn in August 2010 and it was the highlight of our cruise. The more so for me because it had been a lifelong ambition to visit Estonia dating from my time as a youthful stamp collector. I was not disappointed – the city was everything I had hoped it would be.

  33. Penny Quilter says... March 30, 2011 | 3:46am

    The Baltic cruise that we did , it did not stop at Tallinn so I can not comment on the place. St. Petersbergs was the highlight of that holiday. Although we had a commedian that night on the cruise that said ‘ if the captain doesn’t liked the place the ship do not stop. I still like to go on cruise to the Baltic again to be able to exprience the beauty and culture of Tallinn. Thank you.

  34. sandy caricari says... March 29, 2011 | 4:28pm

    In June we will be on our Baltic cruise. Could you please tell me what the weather is like and what to expect.

    • Kathy Fuller says... March 30, 2011 | 12:42pm

      Hi, Sandy!

      Lucky you to have such a glorious experience awaiting you! Our trip was the last week in June. We had wonderful weather @65-70 and a light jacket or windbreaker was all we needed. St. Petersburg was our only rainy day.
      However, we were the first cruise of the season to be able to dock in Stockholm. We were told that the previous two cruises could not get into port because of the bad weather. So, I guess it makes a difference if you are at the beginning or end of June.
      The gift shop onboard sells tons of jackets if you decide you need one. Bon Voyage!

  35. Richard Zimmermann says... March 29, 2011 | 3:03pm

    I agree Tallinn is a real gem. On my Baltic Cruise, everyone talked about St Petersburg. In fact, I liked Tallinn better, The history, the people, the food and the friendliness of the merchants and guides were outstanding.
    Go to St Petersburg, it has alot to offer but don’t miss Tallinn.

  36. Princess Cruises says... March 29, 2011 | 10:41am

    Thank you Kathryn for sharing your story. We enjoyed your description of Tallinn springing to life as if on a movie set.

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