Bruce with his sons, Duncan (left) and Griffin, and his mother-in-law, Elaine, on the beach at Normandy. With both parents in the cruise industry our teenage kids know all too well the pleasures and occasional “hardships” (“Dad, not another cathedral!”) of the family vacation. As long-time Princess employees, my wife, Julie, and I have over the years set sail, our boys in tow, to some incredible destinations. And trying to be good parents, along the way we’ve visited our share of museums, monuments and historic sites; and learned about kings, queens, emperors, popes, and just about everyone else.
As much as we enjoyed the moment, we now look back on our cruises together as something even more special. Because traveling and learning to appreciate the world is also a great way to appreciate each other. And just like when viewing a great piece of art, you sometimes need to take a couple of steps backwards to garner the best perspective. I think the same can be said about vacations, and certainly this is true for our family’s inspiring trip to visit the D-Day landing beaches on the Normandy coast.
It was the summer of 2006 and we were on a Golden Princess cruise visiting ports in Western Europe. Our sons were then 13 and 8 years old. Julie’s mom was with us as well. On this same cruise we had already visited some of Europe’s must-see cities including Dublin, Bergen, Edinburgh, and Bruges. When we pulled into Le Havre, we chose to begin our day with freshly baked croissants in the ship’s patisserie (where else, we were in France?) before going ashore to meet our tour guide.
Marie was smart and elegant and very organized, and she presented us with a detailed timetable for our D-Day tour that would have impressed even General Eisenhower. From Le Havre, we headed south along a sunny and warm Normandy coastline. It’s easy to understand why its rugged beauty and quality of light made it a favorite with the Impressionist painters.
Our guide made good use of our two-hour drive to first brush us up on French and Norman history (trust me, we needed it) and then, of course, to talk about D-Day. She took the time to engage the boys and to explain to them why D-Day was significant.
A historic photo of Normandy taken shortly after the D-Day invasion in June 1944.
She explained that the D-Day landing took place on June 6, 1944. That it was the largest amphibious invasion in history, and took years of top secret planning by the Allied command. That on this single day over 156,000 Allied troops crossed the English Channel and landed along a 50 mile stretch of Normandy coastline, including over 23,000 airborne troops and 133,000 waterborne troops.
She explained to them that the troops were mainly American, British and Canadian, and also included French and other nationalities. That over 11,000 aircraft were used to support the airborne troops and over 5,000 ships were used to move the waterborne troops and supplies.
Our sons heard that this was a mission to secure a foothold on the French coast, and that what the Allies faced was the German “Atlantic Wall,” an extensive system of coastal fortifications built by Nazi Germany and manned by the German 7th Army.
They learned that over 4,000 Allied troops lost their lives on the landing day, and that over 12,000 Allied troops would lose their lives during the entire D-Day campaign. That D-Day was one of the great turning points of World War II. And that eleven months later, Hitler was dead and the war was over.
With this important information imparted, we felt well prepared to appreciate the significance of the place we were about to visit.
Bruce's wife, Julie, standing on one of the concrete bunkers.
We began our D-Day tour with a visit to the Peace Museum in the seaside town of Caen. Considered the best World War II museum in France, it not only provides an in-depth explanation of D-Day but places it within a broader context of the war and the twentieth century. We spent about an hour and a half there, although one could easily spend the day. The displays are kid friendly and our guide showed us the best of the museum’s vast collection, including the 30 minute film on D-Day that brought this epic endeavor to life.
Napoleon (also no stranger to trying to fight the British and the Russians at the same time) said, “An army travels on its stomach” and, taking his advice, we made our way to a nearby local restaurant for lunch. It was small and stylish, the perfect French seaside café. In a matter of minutes a mountain of fresh steamed mussels, loaves of crusty French bread, and a bottle of crisp white wine arrived. It was simple and delicious.
Bruce and his sons, Duncan and Griffin, exploring a Normandy beach.
After lunch it was time to visit the landing areas. We walked along a wide, wind-swept beach as our guide retold the story of the invasion. With our backs to the sea and the cliffs looming in front of us we could only begin to imagine the chilling and heroic realities of the invasion day – soldiers arriving on rough seas in landing craft met by a hail of fire from the hill-top gun emplacements. At times during the battle the fighting was so severe and loss of life so high that Allied commanders considered calling off the attack.
And there was also time that afternoon for boys to be boys – meeting up with other kids from all over the world, climbing in and out of thick concrete bunkers hidden in the cliffs, and clambering over and under restored tanks and other military vehicles that dot the beach area. It reminded me of the quote I had seen earlier in the day at the Peace Museum, “From the heart of our land flows the blood of our youth, given to you in the name of freedom.” Maybe there is no better expression and reward of the hard-won freedoms of the generations before ours than watching these kids at play.
Headstones at the America Cemetery at Courville.
Our last stop was the American Cemetery at Colleville, a 172 acre site, immaculately maintained, crowning a bluff above Omaha Beach. I remember as we entered the cemetery how quiet we became – before us glowed 9,387 white marble crosses and Stars of David. There is no more vivid a reminder of the enormity of D-Day and the loss of life than here. I suppose all generations bring a different perspective to places but we all shared an overpowering sense of loss and remembrance.
We walked among this sea of headstones reading the names, home states, and dates of death inscribed on each. Many of them were only a few years older than our sons. Although strangers, as we read each grave we felt a personal and profound connection to the fallen soldier.
We visited the chapel, the giant reliefs of the Battle of Normandy and the Battle of Europe, and the Garden of the Missing with the names of 1,557 soldiers who were never found. From there we made our way to the bluff for a last look at the Normandy beaches.
As we stood high atop the cliffs overlooking the beaches, on such a tranquil day, it was then that I saw our boys recognize the true significance of what we had visited – and that the courage and sacrifice of others had allowed them to enjoy a better life. I’d like to think it was a moment when, by looking back at history, they gained a new perspective. I think we all did.
Griffin posing with a hill-top gun emplacement.
Griffin (left) and Duncan exploring one of the craters.
My husband and I just returned from visiting Normandy in August as the last stop on a British Isles cruise. Growing up as a young girl, I heard the D-day stories of two uncles that were part of the invasion troops (one a 101st Airborne paratrooper and another part of the US Army ground assault). Memories of those stories came back to me as I walked on the Normandy beaches, through the remaining bunkers and by the craters left from the extensive bombing. I could only imagine the emotions these brave soldiers felt as part of this massive invasion force. How can we ever thank them for the ultimate sacrifice so many of them gave to secure democracy and freedom for future generations? We are truly blessed.
It is very moving. To think that it takes that much courage and sacrifice to preserve the freedom that we enjoy.
Several years ago I visited the small towns in Normandy, Normandy beaches, the American Cemetery, the German bunkers, the lovely little church ,St. Mare Eglise, where a pilot was stuck when he parachuted to earth, the museum etc. It was on a River Cruise to Provence and Paris, and Normandy was an add-on. I had no idea of the impact it would have on me. We had a Korean doctor on our cruise who was very reserved and very pleasant. A wreath was placed and he suddenly began singing in an operatic voice, some of our patriotic songs. There wasn’t a dry eye. Our tour guide had purchased a basket of flowers and we were able to choose several graves to leave a momento of our pride and gratitude We looked at the names and dates and it was one of the most moving experiences of my life. The man who was in charge of the cemetery was an American and told us that there are other American cemeteries in Europe all cared for by young /American men. They consider it an honor. He told us how the white crosses and stars of David are cleaned on a regular schedule. I had studied about the World War I and II, but this experience left a permanent picture in my mind of the enormous sacrifice that our service men and women make. You are free to walk among the graves and they seem to go on forever. It is nice to know that even in a foreign land our country takes care of the soldiers who are buried there long after the fact. Normandy has many aspects that are happy and pretty, the scenery, the cows whose milk makes such wonderful butter and cheese, the spectacular scenery, the beautiful waterways, and the people who are grateful to America for helping to make them free. We often hear that the French don’t like Americans and don’t appreciate what was done for them.I didn’t find that to be the case. People stopped us in the area around the American Cemetery and thanked us for what America did to help them. I highly recommend a visit to Normandy.
My uncle Jack was a medic on the Normandy Invasion. He told me that they ran out of bandages and other medicines and he ended up having to close wounds with safety pins.
It was the only time I heard him talk about the war.
My father, William F Leahy, graduated from the Naval Academy 1 yr early because of the war. He was assigned to the USS Texas and was off the coast of Normandy, at Pointe d’Huc, on D Day. He was stationed in the crow’s nest, atop the ship, and in charge of directing the guns in the turretts below in firing at the cliffs to help protect the men in the boats going ashore and the rangers climbing the cliffs to reach their positions.
He lost many friends during that invasion and always wondered about a church that he was directed to fire on being controlled by German intelligence. Normally churches were safe havens for the towns people and not destroyed by gunfire. My dad had the occasion to return to Omaha Beach on the 50th anniversary of D day and reserved a guide to take him, my mother and sister around the area. He brought up his worries about bombing this church and to his amazement this guide was a boy who lived in the town and was there on D day. He thanked my dad for his bravery and assured him that indeed there was german intelligence in the church and by the bombing, his friends and family were saved from being captured. My dad wept on hearing this news and was forever grateful to know that he did’nt kill innocent people. My dad never talked about his experiences during the war, except for the church being bombed, and now his mind was put to ease. I thank Bruce for all his wonderful words and I know that someday soon I will be going to Normandy to experience the history and reverence of all the sights that were mentioned. God bless all the fallen and active service men and women who make the USA such a wonderful and safe place to live in. I thank them for their service, bravery and unselfishness and honor them all.
On a veterans tour, five years ago, we had the privledge of visiting Omaha Beach, and raised the flag in the cemetary above the beach, with the National Anthem playing, while also laying a wreath in rememberance of all vets that paid the final price. As a point of rememberence, I selected approx 20 small stones from the waters edge, and have presented some of these to friends for a “special place in their garden”. Five stones have been placed in a special location. within a VFW museum.next to a metal piece from the Arizona, sunk at Pearl harbor. Am proud to be a vet. Bob Tochterman
Thank you Bruce for sharing your experiences at Normandy. In May of 2007 our son, his wife, my 80 yr old mother and 87 yr old father,(he turned 88 on the flight over) along with my husband and myself took a trip to Europe. Our son had wanted his grandfather, a WWII vet to be able to trace some of his footsteps he was at during the war. We were more than glad to accompany them on the trip. One of our stops were to the Normandy Beaches. My dad landed on the Omaha Beach. It was a very moving experience for him and us. As we stood looking at the map at the American cemetery(it was a cold cloudy day and was very quiet there) he told my husband he could hear the turtle doves in the back ground making it a chilling rememberance (we could see a tear roll down his face). We also visited the Peace Muesum and Pointe d’ hoc. He was shot (thru his lung and the bullet traveled around and out his back) in a small town called Gutergluck, Germany, 1 month before the war ended. With much research before we left on our trip and trying to commute with some locals in the town we were able to pinpoint the spot dad was shot. It was a trip we will never forget thanks to our son, He had broken his leg 2 days before our trip, but he didn’t want to cancel for fear there would not be a second chance, since his grandparents were aging, also my dad (5 months before the trip) fell down 14 steps breaking his neck and also suffering numerous facial injuries. He got his brace off 2 weeks before we left. Your story brought back so many memories for me, I just had to share some of ours. Thanks again.;
This reminds me so much of my day at Normandy, visiting the beaches, the cemetery and the Peace Museum. Although I was born just before the end of World War II, I was overwhelmed by what we saw and heard about D-Day. We were even more overwhelmed when we exited the museum and were told of the attacks on the World Trade Center. It was September 11, 2001.
My husband’s father landed on Omaha Beach on D-Day+3. Visiting the Normandy beaches has long been on our bucket list. We are very much looking forward to our visit on Armed Services Day this year on our Crown Princess voyage. It will be very meaningful to my husband knowing his father, who was an ambulance driver during this conflict, suffered and yet survived. As a youth, my husband tried to get his dad to share his war experiences in vain. Too painful were the horrors he witnessed that it took many years to open up a little. Thank you, Cecil, for your courage and sacrifice.
We chose this side trip last year when cruising the British Isles with Princess. It was everything I hoped for and more. One of the added surprises was a group of Belgium citizens welcoming our bus to the cemetery on July 4th. As they explained, this was their way of thanking the Americans and others for their sacrifice. We were each given a red rose and a grave location for a fallen soldier. What a wonderful experience to locate the grave and place the flower! Don’t miss this opportunity!
I have been thinking about taking a Princess Cruise this fall that included a Tour of Normandy. Last Sept., quite by chance, we visited The WW II Cemetery in Tunisia, North Africa when Princess changed their Ports of Call. I discovered my Mother’s Brother Carl was buried there before we left home. We had signed up for that tour. We emailed our intensions to the cemetery. My Mom had passed away in Dec. and always wanted to go to her brothers graves. We did that for Mom and what a wonderful moving experience it was! Not only did we get to go there but the Curator had a golf cart waiting for us when we arrived to take us directly to his grave. Mom’s other Brother is buried at Normandy and we would like to go and pay our respects to her brother Stephen. Words cannot describe what a memorable experience it was the first time. After reading your story, I am convinced we need to take this trip as well. Thanks for sharing your story.
We will be flying to France in about 4 weeks. This will be trip #20 for us. My husband worked in LeHavre for a number of year as a consultant.
We usually spend three days in Paris upon arrival to take in both the d’Orsay and the Louvre.
After that, we travel by car to Normandy and spend a week in Honfleur.
This time we have decided to revisit the Loire Valley (see Chambord and Chennonceau); and then go to the Dordognne. Then back to Paris for three final nights.
We feel very privileged to have had this experience over the years. The French have been so very cordial to us.
By the way, we just returned two weeks ago from a lovely sailing on the Sapphire Princess to the Mexican Riviera.
Best to all,
Carol
Five years ago we took our 3 sons to Paris and Normandy. Normandy was a must for my husband, who is a WWII buff. It turned out to be our best day of the trip, as our sons climbed around the bunkers and looked over the cliffs at Pointe D’Hoc that the rangers scaled in the face of gunfire and grenades. We finished the day with a walk through the American Cemetary. It was a very moving day, and reading Bruce’s recounting brought it all back – actually choked me up at the memory. This year my husband is taking a Princess cruise with his daughter and friends, and will visit Normandy again. He can’t wait.
During a time of unremitting criticism of the US by most media, European countries and academia, it is time to remember exactly what it was that allowed the enormous freedoms we have. These young men (and some women too) gave their lives without question…for us. There are no words that can frame the sense of gratitude that we collectively owe them.
YhanksBruce and yes I now want togo more than every , I am adding this to my BUCKET LIST
Enjoyed very much reading about your Normandy experience. What a huge sacrifice by so many. I was in the service but was blessed to be stationed in Germany in peace time and when there, made several visits to the Dachau concentration camp near Munich. The soldiers sacrifices at Normandy and beyond also saved millions more that would have died at the hands of the evil Nazi regime.
The Normandy visit is also on my bucket list and now am even more determined to make that trip (and probably on a cruise)
Thank you again for sharing.
Jim in Phoenix
Bruce, what a descriptive, thoughtful and beautiful travel story. I’m sure the experience will forever be with all of you, especially duncan and griffin, and now you’ve given us the gift of having shared it with us (until we can get there ourselves that is!)
THE NORMANDY BEACHES FULL OF HONOR AND THE REASONS WE LIVE IN OUR WONDERFUL COUNTRY INDEED…..AMERICA THE GREAT !!!
WOULD IT NOT BE WONDERFUL TO HONOR EVERY HUMAN WHO FOUGHT AND WHO GAVE THEIR LIVES FOR OUR LIVES…. TO LIVE IN A FREE GREAT COUNTRY EVERYONE PLEASE PURCHASE AMERICAN QUALITY GOODS
PLEASE DRIVE AMERICAN AUTOS AND GIVE OUR WONDERFUL SOLDIERS JOBS AND EMPLOYMENT TO COME HOME TO….PLEASE BUY AMERICAN THIS IS WHAT OUR COUNTRY IS ALL ABOUT PLEASE CHANGE YOUR THINKING AND HAVE AMERICANS WORKING THE ONLY WAY FOR OUR STRONG COUNTRY TO REMAIN STRONG.
PLEASE STOP BUYING IMPORTS….PLEASE PROTECT AMERICA
THANKS SO VERY MUCH.
lol.sad
Sorry – meant to say there is a 30 minute movie along with all the exhibits.
We went to Normandy, the highlight of our River Cruise, last summer. The problem with doing this on a cruise is the time constraint imposed. We spent so much time at the cemetery that we were unable to spend time at the very impressive and important visiter’s center afterwards. There is a 30 minute and wonderful exhibits we were unable to view. My advice is to plan time wisely if on a tour so that this is not missed.
NICE ONE BRUCE
Last year my parents took both my daughters to Normandy as part of their college graduation gift. Neither of them were all that excited to go but this destination was on my Dad’s “Bucket List” and he wanted to share it with his grandaughters. As it happened my girls were very moved by the experience and said it was a highlight of their travels together. Your vivid story made me feel like I was part of it all…thank you!
Hi , I enjoyed reading about your visit to Normandy especially your visit to The American Cemetery in Colleville my fathers name is on the wall of the missing.we were there a few years ago its such a beautiful place I hope i get to go back again.
Thank you so much for sharing this story and experience. I will be working and sailing with Princess Cruises Feb 2010 and look forward to joining the fleet and crew. Have you heard of the Maori Battlion (NZX) I get chills up my back now as I write this. They were amazing warriors and troopers in the WWI & WWII. Many of my people are buried in Normandy and my heart goes out to all who fought for their countries. Thank you again for sharing your moments and thoughts in regards to Normanday and D day! Kia ora.
Your story deeply moved me. I am proud to say my grandfather was one of the many brave solders that heroically went ashore D-Day. Being an extremely humble man I did not learn of the greatly significant role he played in the events of that day until his passing in 2005 as I was organizing his things. This entry is a great reminder that we must always remember and honor the past. I cannot put into words the appreciation I have for the respect you paid to the soldiers and the events of that day. I’m sure my grandfather would feel the same way. Thank you.
The story has been well told many times, but it is worth remembering the sacrifice of the ordinary citizens involved with the fighting, etc. As you travel around France and other European countries you will come across memorials in some very out of the way places which bring home the atrocities of war. There is hardly a church in the UK which does not have a memorial recording the deaths of soldiers on service but rarely do they record the deaths of the citizens. A snag of cruising is that you often only get to see a snapshot of the countries visited. Yes, go to Normandy and be moved by the valour of the soldiers but next time try to make a thorough visit to France, Belgium, etc and as you pass through the countryside, especially Northern France, count the number of war cemeteries from all sides and go into the villages and churches and read their war memorials. They will move you to tears.
Just read your article.. Well done. We did this trip last year and visit to Normandy is a must.
We will be back again with our grand kids and cover Normandy again as all should do. We must never forget the sacrifice that was made that day in France. Best to do this on board a Princess ship.
Thank you for sharing your Normandy experience, it was intriguing and drew me in. I especially enjoyed the photos,. When I first read this I was hurried and excited and did not realize there was a second page, If I ever go to France, the Peace museum will be on my list.
The courage and bravery of the soldiers is unstoppable and can be used for inspiration throughout everyones lives. When you are going through hell, keep going…
I am so fortunate, and am thankful and becoming more so every day and reading y0ur post helps ring this to be true.
I am a ww2 vet.all in the pacific but I had the privelage of being on a cruise ship with veterans from America,England and Canada for the 50th anniversary of landing that day on the beaches of France.We had a meeting for us vets and I wish all of America could have heard the stories that were told,it was unbelievable of the heroics that day.I want to thank Bruce for his comments of Omaha beach and Normandy.
Please write down those stories you heard, even just what you remember of them, and publish them on the internet. We are losing the veterans, and their personal histories, and it is important the stories be saved, even if second hand, for future generations. The names of the veterans may be lost, but their stories can be saved. Thank you.
Beautifully written, Bruce. Really enjoyed reading this post.
Best,
- Ed
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this experience. I love history, books about World War II and movies about that period in our history. Thank you so much for a very moving and informational narrative. You were certainly fortunate with the Tour Guide who accompanied you. She obviously added a great deal to your trip experience. Thank you so much for sharing! I really enjoyed reading about your vacation.
My father landed on Omaha Beach on D-Day +1. I would love to visit the area in honor of my Dad who lived his life as a gentleman and a gentle man.
Normancy is on our British Isles cruise this coming summer and is one of the ports I am most looking foward to. My husband and I are both Canadian soldiers and this will be our first opportunity to truly experience something of great historical significance to our military history. Thank you so much for your beautiful depiction of your day.
Oh God….I can’t edit! Normandy…not Nomancy!!
Hi Lydia,
We are among a group of three other Canadian couples who will be trying to hit the Normandy Beaches this year, touring off a Princess ship. The opportunities to hit the American Beach sites, as made available through on shore Princerss cruise excursions, seem to be excellent. But, the line does not seem to have anything that caters specifically to the needs of Canadian (or British) passengers wishing to specifically pay respects to the area where our troops played a role. Did you find a price-compatible, on-shore tour group or are you renting a vehicle to travel on your own?
Fred
As A Canadian also we are on the Princess Cruise this August but am also disappointed that the Canadian site Juno is not included on the tours. We are attempting to book an independant tour to accomodate us. Enjoy your Cruise and especially our Le Havre Port and Normandy
Hi There
We did this cruise the year before, it was a great mix of ports.
yours Shogun
I’m glad I am doing this in June after our Princess Cruise.
I’d never thought of putting Normandy in my bucket list. But after reading your report, it is there now. Thanks Mr. Krumrine for a wonderfully descriptive story.
Your story is so vivid and detailed that I felt like I was right there with you! Normandy should certainly be on everyone’s travel bucket list. It’s definitely moved up on mine after reading your post.