Reader Essential Experience of the Week

Inside a Pyramid: Descending into Khafre’s Tomb
Giza, Egypt
Posted by Sharon Wollman
November 2, 2010

Three years ago my husband, Bruce, and I were sailing for his birthday on Star Princess when a Head Waiter friend of ours said the most amazing thing, “Why don’t you come sail with me again in November to Egypt?” We were Elite with Princess and had been on many incredible sailings in the Caribbean and in Europe, but Egypt? Up until that moment, I have to admit that we never in our wildest dreams ever imagined that we would ever be able to travel to Egypt much less sail there. How is that possible? When we returned home I began researching and found that this “trip of a lifetime” was indeed possible on Star Princess.

Sharon and her husband, Bruce, at the Sphinx.

It was a trip back in time, with the cruise beginning in Rome and sailing onto Naples, Piraeus, Kusadasi, Istanbul, Cairo and Alexandria – every port stop took us further and further back in history. When we arrived at the Saqqara Necropolis and Bruce turned to me with a handful of sand and said, “You know when they talk about something being as old as dirt? This is the dirt they’re talking about.” It was funny, yes, but also true – we were awestruck.

We were on Princess’ 2-day overland excursion and early the second day we were at the Giza Plateau when our guide asked, “Who would like to enter a pyramid?” My husband and I nearly jumped out of our seats. I guess it wasn’t enough that the first morning we were entranced by our first views of Egypt: the dramatic sunrise over Port Said, then there was the amazing caravan crossing The Desert Road to Cairo, or our first view of the River Nile and later that evening sitting under a star- filled sky watching the Sound and Light Show at the Great Pyramids – no, it seems that one more adventure awaited.

The view of Khafre's sarcophagus inside the pyramid.

This was how we found ourselves on a fine, warm, clear November day climbing down into the bowels of Khafre’s Pyramid in Giza. The entrance was a covered with a beige awning and a small group of people waited patiently. The opening to the passageway was about 3 feet square and there was a tiny wooden walkway perhaps 24 inches across. This is the only way in or out.

To take this particular journey we had to crouch over and carefully walk down this wooden stairway, negotiating the stairs would be a challenge at any time, but made even more interesting because we had to carefully pass the individuals coming back up. Those heading down were saying, “I hope I make it” and the people coming up reassured them with “you won’t be sorry.”

Finally at one point the passageway leveled out and we all stopped to stretch to a standing position and catch our breath. Up ahead there was another set of stairs and we were surprised that it was leading up an incline; we followed along and with surprise we realized we made it!

The icons of Egypt at night.

We were standing in Khafre’s Tomb. It was room perhaps 30 square feet, with a granite sarcophagus against the far wall and other stone platforms along the sides. In one corner stood a vase at least 10 feet tall. The walls were a burnished copper color and we could see that they had once had drawings on them. It was dark – lit by a lone light fixture (obviously not original equipment!) and eerily quiet.

Oh yes, it was definitely worth it. We sat for a long time in awe of our surroundings, taking the entire experience in. When we could find the words we discussed the likelihood that our travels would ever bring us to such an amazing place.

I wasn’t aware that I had a bucket list at that time but now as I think about where I want to go and what I want to experience, I know I can see the world one port at a time, on Princess.

Sharon's favorite photo of Khafre's Pyramid and the Sphinx.

Sharon tries her hand at camel riding.

See cruises that visit this destination

52 Comments

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  3. Barb L says... October 21, 2011 | 4:48am

    Great comments on the pyramids! Cant wait to go in July 2012! What monetary unit is used for going inside the pyramids!!!! Princess has 2 excursions (one in Cairo and one inAlexandria with Nile cruise) We are doing both day excursions!!!!! Any helpful hints?????

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  7. Marga Doerr says... July 29, 2011 | 3:03pm

    to Robert Dexter – I also made the climb (from a small ship which had stopped in Sharm) of Mt. Sinai – I will never forget it! I did it by camel – about 2 hours and then the “steps” on foot. but I would not recommend that climb to anyone in the dark – I did it on an afternoon in January 09 in beautiful weather! It was grand to view the everchanging scenery from the back of my camel! Would recommend it to anyone!

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  10. Liliane says... January 24, 2011 | 7:28am

    We did this cruise in November 2009 on the Gran Princess the Pyramids and Cairo Museum in one day and we do not recommend it . We did the excursion with Princess and where disapointed because it is a 6 hours coach journey and on destination more time is given to shopping than to the Pyramids and the museum ,it seems that people that did the overnight excursion where more impressed.Glad I have seen it would not go back.All the other destinations where very good it is a superb itinary.

    • Robert Baxter says... February 11, 2011 | 12:29pm

      Although we have cruised with Princess several times it was with a tour company that we made an 18 day trip throughout Egypt. All I can say is go, you will not be disappointed. The highlight for us was climbing Mt. Sanai in total darkness and being witness to the sunrise once we made the four hour hike to the top. Awe inspiring to say the least, something that should be on the Bucket List for Princess. We have done a considerable amount of traveling and this is at the top of the list. We feel blessed to have made this trip in November of 2010 prior to the revolution which is escalating as I write this. Once things settle make the trip, you will not be disappointed.

  11. Organic Foods says... January 16, 2011 | 8:25am

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  12. Lorna says... January 9, 2011 | 7:08am

    I enjoyed your experience Sharon. In November 2009 my husband and I flew to Luxor and did a week’s cruise (not Princess, sorry) on a small vessel. We sailed to Aswan. We saw all major tourist attractions on the way. I entered King Tut’s tomb in the Valley of the Kings. We definitely have got Cairo and the pyramids on our bucket list. We intend to book a cruise soon with this destination on the itinerary.

  13. lena lemaster says... January 6, 2011 | 1:37pm

    I was booked on a land tour to Egypt this March(2011) that I had to cancel for mediical reasons, but after reading these great comments, I definately will be rescheduling for 2012. It helps so much to read comments from Happy Travelers. Must ride a Camel also!!!

  14. Jona says... January 5, 2011 | 5:34pm

    We also took the Princess Egypt Aegean cruise in Oct. 2010. One word of caution that I must share with everyone….make sure that your tour excursion to Cairo includes a security guard of some sort. We booked a private tour with Ramses and we did not have anyone with us for security purposes. Although it was stated in our booking confirmation, we left the port with only one other couple, our guide and her driver.He got lost in one of the nastiest parts of Cairo on our way to the Nile Cruise. The crowds were getting very upset and began shouting at our van when we almost hit a pregnant woman.
    The vendors at the Pyramids are relentless, and often will not take “no” for an answer. Just be firm
    and keep walking away from them. The decent into Khafre’s pyramid is pretty amazing. I would do this excursion all over again, but I would make sure that security was provided before I ever left the port! That’s the only time we ever felt unsafe. All the other ports and excursions were wonderful. I still can’t believe that I finally got to Egypt…….a dream come true, with one nightmare thrown in!!!

  15. Bill O says... December 17, 2010 | 8:11am

    My new wife and I went on the Ruby Princess in early July 2010 for our honeymoon. Overall the cruise was fantastic but the Egypt part was a mixed experience. The Nile River cruise was very worthwhile in spite of the obvious security details everywhere. The scenery at the pyramids was overshown by the crass harassment that the locals who were rude and deceptive. The camel ride was a joke on us where we were charged far in excess of the supposed going rate and when pictures were being taken by myself my Canon digital slr wasgrabbed by the men and I was given a scarf and a riding crop for props which I didn’t ask for. When I decided to try to pay up the extorsion I had money grabbed out of my wallet by one of the men. A similar experience happened near the sphynx and there our tour guide, a very spunky young woman went out and helped us get the money that was taken out of my hands there. The tourist “policeman” who was wandering around was obviously being paid off by the camel drivers. So although we’d go back to the sights otherwise visited, you can skip the pyramids as far as we’re concerned. If you go watch your money and say no to the picture takers. Wish we’d know this before going there.

  16. Sharon Wollman says... November 29, 2010 | 4:33am

    Sorry I have been away (on a Princess Cruise) and have just checked back here. I was stunned to find so many new comments. Thank you all for your kinds words and for relaying your wonderful stories of your travels in Egypt. It was certainly a once in a lifetime experience, from the convoy across the desert to Cairo to the last sunset sailing from Alexandria. Safe Travels All.

  17. Shirley says... November 28, 2010 | 11:33am

    This is a supplement to my earlier comment to clarify that the pyramid I climbed with Khufu (Cheops) which is quite near Khafre and a bit larger. There are some facing stones remaining at the top of Khafre, but none remain on Khufu. Therefore, the top is a small square flat platform rather than a peak. The trip inside Khufu was similar to Sharon’s description of entering Khafre. We also entered King Tut’s tomb, and went on south to Luxor and the Valley of the Dead. Although I presume many changes in Cairo have occurred since 1954, and more excavations have been made at the antiquities, I also presume much has remained the same. The villages we saw on the way to Luxor in 1954 probably looked about the same as in 2000 B.C. The contrast between modern and ancient is striking.

  18. Shirley says... November 28, 2010 | 11:18am

    My trip to Egypt was in 1954 with my parents and sister. We visited former neighbors who were living in a Cairo suburb and worked at a university. At that time, the sphinx was not excavated very much – the sand covered the paws and only the upper part of the sphinx was visible, but still spectacular. We went inside the pyramid, but also our host and a guide decided to climb to the top. Scrambling over large boulders was quite scary, but the view from the small platform on top was spectacular. Also, our trip happed to be during the revolution when Nasser came to powe,r replacing Naguib – a popular leader who succeeded King Farouk. Even during the short revolution, we never felt unsafe. That was a long time ago, but I would go again, especially with a tour group. Tourists are important to the economy and generally are safe.

  19. Ruth says... November 26, 2010 | 6:33am

    Ann, no need to worry at all in Egypt if you’re on a tour. The worst thing is that the locals will hassle you incessantly to buy from them, but you will be warned about dealing with them – just keep saying ‘no’ very firmly and try not to make eye contact. It’s still an amazing experience.

  20. Amy and Fran Hueber says... November 23, 2010 | 11:52am

    We did this trip last year on the Grand Princess for our 45th Anniversary and it was truly
    magical. I never thought that we would get to see the pyramids, but it should be on everyone’s bucket list. It was an incredible tour and felt very safe. Also, loved the ruins in
    Ephesus and Greece and of course, Italy. Just fabulous trip that we won’t forget.
    Thanks for sharing Sharon and Bruce.

    • george and debbie needell says... November 24, 2010 | 1:41pm

      just got off the msc splendida today from our trip to egypt and greece as well. both were on our bucket list. the pyramids were fantastic but once going would not do it again. an extremely poor and dangerous third world country. was the most filthiest country from the time we arrived to the time we left. also the police escorted trip from alexandria to cairo said it all. a great bucket list item and will not go back again.

  21. Herbert says... November 22, 2010 | 8:58pm

    Your experience at Giza was one my wife and I have recently done in October 17/2010. You’re right on target…that was my #1 reason for sailing with the Star Princess,I just couldn’t let this opportunity pass me by and haven’t regret it. What an adventure!

    • Ann a. says... November 23, 2010 | 7:56am

      I have heard it is unsafe. Did you encounter any issues?

  22. Richard says... November 22, 2010 | 8:25pm

    I took the adventure into the Pyramid and it was great, so glad, something I will never forget. I’am way past middle age, but still recommed it.

  23. Lucy says... November 22, 2010 | 7:38pm

    So, glad I decided to read your story! I would love to go on this trip, but both my husband and I don’t know if we can survive the long flight. My older sister always wanted to go to Egypt she was so fascinated with its history. She passed away unexpectedly at the age of 56. I would love to be able to make this trip in her honor. I just turned 56 in July. Thanks for reminding me of how special of a place it is,

    • Betty says... December 20, 2010 | 3:26pm

      Hi Lucy. Don’t hesitate to go just because of your age and the long flight. If you’re in fairly good health you can do it if you really want to! My husband and I took the Princess Holy Land cruise in 2009, and it was fabulous. I was 71 then and he was almost 73. We departed from Athens and visited Santorini, Patmos, Ephesus, Cairo, Alexandria, and two ports in Israel before we headed back to Croatia and Venice. We didn’t feel unsafe, just a bit cautious. There were armed guards with us on some of the excursions, and I would not hesitate to go with a Princess group, but I wouldn’t try to do it on my own! It truly was the trip of a lifetime for us, the highlights being walking the streets of Old Jerusalem, seeing the ruins of the Acropolis and Ephesus, and of course the pyramids. We try to do most of our traveling through cruises for obvious reasons of safety and not having to pack and unpack often. This year we did the Baltic, with a highlight being St. Petersburg! Fabulous!!!

    • Lorna says... January 9, 2011 | 7:00am

      Hi Lucy, yes I agree with Betty. My husband and I traveled to Egypt just over a year ago, he was 70 and I was 63. Actually we flew from London so it’s not so far, but I don’t know how far away you live. Have fun. Lorna

  24. Jeanne says... November 22, 2010 | 7:12pm

    We are doing the trans Atlantic and Egypt, also on our bucket list, this coming May 2011. We are so excited and reading your post and seeing your pictures, I can’t wait now till we can do it. May you do all of your bucket list!!! I am almost done with mine! ;^ ))

  25. Roberta says... November 22, 2010 | 5:53pm

    We did this cruise last year (2009) combined with the Greek Isles ending up in Venice.

    Egypt was #1 on my bucket list with Greece a very close second — I managed to cross them both off on once wonder, awe inspiring double cruise. Going into Khafre’s tomb was a wonderful experience that I hadn’t even expected. Unfortunately, they took our cameras away from us so I didn’t get any pictures inside so its nice to see inside again.

    Thank you for sharing your experience, I relived adventure as I read your story.

  26. Don says... November 22, 2010 | 5:39pm

    My wife and I made a similar trip on Princess in 2001 for our 25th anniversary. It was great and was the trip that infected us with the travel bug (have now made all seven continents!)

    One of the highlights was the walk into the pyramid to Khafre’s tomb–but that almost didn’t happen. Our tour guide seemed more interested in getting us to the shops than to let us experience the pyramids. She actually took a vote on the tour bus and I was the only one who wanted to see the tomb (how often do you get the chance to go inside a pyramid!). I didn’t give in, so she literally ran me across the desert to the entrance. What an experience–I was so glad I persisted.

    Sharon, thanks for sharing with such a well written article!

  27. Monica says... November 22, 2010 | 4:48pm

    We just completed this cruise on the October 17 departure date from Rome. it was indeed awesome, because in addition to seeing the Pyramids and the Sphinx in Egypt, we also saw the fabulous library in Alexandria, the mosque in Istanbul (sadly the Grand Bazaar was closed on Sunday), the Parthenon in Athens, Greece, the ruins of Ephesus and Pompeii and the Amalfi coast in Italy! Truly amazing and a cruise well worth taking! Counting North America, we were on 4 continents on that trip including Europe, Africa (Egypt) and Asia (Ephesus).

    • Ann a. says... November 23, 2010 | 7:57am

      This is a trip my husband and I were looking forward to taking in the summer of 2011, however I continue to get reports that it is not safe to travel there. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.

  28. Mary says... November 22, 2010 | 3:37pm

    This is my future dream trip to Egypt. Now I am totally exciting that maybe in two years my husband and I could go. I have been to Europe on the 12 day from Venice to Barcelona. Beautiful trip and recommend it to everyone.

  29. physical therapist says... November 10, 2010 | 1:20am

    Couldnt agree more with that, very attractive article

  30. Sharon Wollman says... November 7, 2010 | 6:05am

    Thank you all for your kinds words. I wish you all fair winds and following seas.

    • Sharon Wollman says... November 7, 2010 | 6:07am

      Whoops…I of course meant kind words.

  31. Swen Hanson says... November 5, 2010 | 8:53am

    We also toured Egypt, in 2008, and while we didn’t go with Princess(we been thru the Panama Canal with Princess) we really loved it, didn’t think we’d ever get there but we did.
    We saw a great deal, everyday was wonderful. Really to do it justice, go with a land tour(Insight) called “Jewels of the Nile”. We plan on taking a cruise with Princess next summer to Alaska. Hopefully soon to Europe and Scandinavia. But I really have my heart set on a World Tour with all the fixin’s,

  32. Karen Meyers says... November 5, 2010 | 7:20am

    My husband and I are taking the trip of OUR lifetime next November—31 days with Princess starting in Greece visiting Turkey, Israel, Egypt, Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Morrocco, Great Britain and Bermuda. Your story about Egypt makes me even more excited to go on this once in a lifetime trip!

  33. Bea says... November 4, 2010 | 5:00pm

    Went to Egypt with my husband; awesome! Couldn’t walk into the pyramids..talk about major claustraphobic feelings. Just started a blog with Cairo and the pyramids as one topic: http://practicaltravelinsights.blogspot.com/

  34. Barbara says... November 4, 2010 | 9:28am

    We did this last year. Truly amazing. Ruby Princess next year to Pompeii.

  35. regino miranda ladrero says... November 3, 2010 | 6:54pm

    i like it

  36. Robert McDougall says... November 3, 2010 | 3:02pm

    Was on the 2009 World Cruise on Dawn Princess and visited this wonderful location. It was awesome as indeed have been the wonderful experiences I have had twice on Dawn Princess. Have only 47 days until on the Dawn again. I find it the only way to have a complete holiday & experience. Wish all travellers the very best wishes.

  37. carol says... November 3, 2010 | 2:42pm

    We are planning a Holy Land tour for October 2012 for our 30th wedding anniversary. After reading your story we are glad we choose it! Never knew it was on DH’s bucket list!!!

  38. Sissy says... November 3, 2010 | 1:39pm

    Reading about your experience just increases my excitement, we leave next week on the Pacific Princess and will be able to experience all these wonders ourselves. Thanks for sharing your story.

  39. Ann says... November 3, 2010 | 12:25pm

    You have definitely made this a cruise I want to do some day thanks

  40. Jack Ryan says... November 3, 2010 | 10:35am

    Wonderful story! What an adventure.

  41. Chris and Mike says... November 3, 2010 | 9:07am

    Thanks for the delightful narrative of your cruise to Egypt. Great photos, too. Thanks for sharing.

  42. Shogun says... November 2, 2010 | 4:30pm

    My bucket list keeps getting longer, thanks for sharing

  43. Wanda says... November 2, 2010 | 9:33am

    We were with Sharon on that amazing cruise but we didn’t have time to really do the pyramids justice. We’ll just have to go back.

    Thanks for sharing Sharon. That trip was indeed magical!!

  44. Karen says... November 2, 2010 | 8:20am

    Sharon – great story and amazing photos! Hopefully one day I’ll get there!

  45. Princess Cruises says... November 2, 2010 | 6:11am

    Sharon, we agree that your experience should be on everyone’s travel bucket list! Thanks for sharing such a great story.

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